practical costuming

For anyone planning a new costume or even just planning to start making costumes in general, the ladies at Pink Ray Gun have some important tips to remember.

Practical Points for Costumes

Next up

It's been busy lately, but mostly because my husband keeps getting me to try new video games that I then get hooked on playing. For instance, I have Europa 1400--The Guild running in the background as I type this.

Anyway, I finished the 50's dress and am waiting on some decent pictures of it. The dress came out pretty well, though I wish we had found a print for it that would have looked appropriate. I have seen some pictures of the dress on the commissioner, and the fit looked pretty good at the end.

Next up is a double play in preparation for Mechacon. First up is JooDee from Avatar: The Last Airbender. I am planning to have this finished for the opening of The Last Airbender movie, but I am also using various fabric that I already have so I am not sure how authentic it will end up looking. I've cut out the material for the robe, but have yet to find a decent full body picture for the outfit. As such, I'm unsure what the bottom (or pants) look like.

Second is Jeane from Suikoden--that is the first Suikoden video game. My goal is to complete the outfit at least by the convention. As I am a bit strapped for cash right now, I will not be able to get the wig or contacts needed to complete this character. I am finished with the basic dress and only need to finish the "armory" jewelry pieces and the shoes. If time and funds permit, I may make her staff as well as her earrings. I'm working on the first one.

So that's what's coming up. In addition, I am working on some "on-going" Star Wars costumes, namely Mara Jade stuff and Ysanne Isard.

Alterations

I'm wrapping up on the 50's dress and it is coming out rather well. However, as with most things, there were some minor alterations that needed to be done so the dress fit well. Things like shortening the waist were done during construction, but after the fitting, we found that the waist was now too wide. Also the shoulders were too high, or rather there was too much fabric between the bust point and the shoulders, so the shoulders needed to be lifted.

In general, I don't mind doing alterations, but I prefer having several fittings as I go so I can get them taken care of before I have done a bunch of hand sewing to give the garment a finished look. Most of the time, to do the alterations correctly, you have to go back under that which you had just sealed via hand sewing. And since I hate hand sewing, it just bothers me to have to do that. Whenever I go back to seal it up by hand the second time, the stitches are no where near as pretty as they were the first time around. I'm also of the mind that it's better to do it right the first time. Unfortunately, that is nigh impossible to do with sewing. In fact, I would say if you made something and got a perfect fit straight off of the machine and pattern then you are either one of the lucky few with the "ideal" body shape (ideal as defined by the pattern company anyway), or  you just had some dumb luck.
When making clothes and costumes for oneself, it is easier to get lucky because you can use a body double or a sloper that matches your shape. It's not so easy when making something for someone else and you don't have those things. Maybe next time I make something for someone, I'll make a sloper first for them so I can better alter the pattern before hand, rather than make changes after the fact.

Making changes after the fact is precisely why I do not alter ready to wear garments. It's too much hassle that I, personally do not have the patience for. I'd rather pay someone to do it for me. Silly considering I could do it myself, but if it would take the fun out of the hobby for me, I'd rather not. Which further solidifies the saintliness of my mother in my mind. She did not just do alterations, but she altered beaded gowns.

So... Alterations: necessary evil, but easier with multiple fittings and/or body double/sloper.

costume possibilities

just updated my pics of possible or in progress costumes. This list is far from comprehensive.

Hand stitching

Let me first say that I hate hand sewing. And I don't just dislike it... I loathe it with a passion I cannot express. With the minor exception of embroidery, which I occasionally get the urge to do from time to time. I do understand that it is an important part of sewing, but if I think I can get something done on a machine, I will. At least until recently.

I've had a couple of teachers hand stitching teachers in the past (namely my mom) who have tried to get me to see the light, but now I'm trying to teach myself. I would really like to raise the quality of my costuming work, and that is going to mean the employ of more hand sewing. It could be either through basting pieces together, using thread tracing to make patterns, or just finishing the finer details that I would normally do in a machine. Some of the costumes I have planned right now actually cannot have any topstitching visible, so, things will have to be finished by stitching in the ditch or attaching to seam allowances... by hand. God help us all. Hopefully I'll have a couple of wonderful people to help keep me sane when this starts driving me nuts. And I hate to admit it, but... I've been practicing on my sis-in-law's dress and... well, I find this somewhat therapeutic. Except that it kills my back and fingers.

So, important hand stitches to know:
Running stitch, backstitch, blanket stitch, overcast stitch, blind hem stitch. I only know the first two really well and am still learning the hem stitch. Wish me luck!

On pattern sewing

First off, I'd like to say that I'm not one of those uppity cosplayers who take pride in not being able to use a pattern and having to draft everything myself. You people are crazy for wanting to reinvent the wheel every time you make something. I am perfectly aware that there are no commercial patterns available for most costumes, but that doesn't mean you have to start a costume from scratch. You can take most costumes and break them down into pieces that you CAN then find in a standard pattern catalog.

Once you learn how to read a pattern (and believe me I've taught many other costumers how to do this, or have tried to. Some in particular didn't want to learn), you open up a whole other area of sewing. You don't have to just make costumes. You can make actual clothes that you might want to wear for non-convention purposes! Imagine the possibilities!

Ok, enough attitude. I've been doing some significant pattern sewing recently. Despite knowing how to use a pattern for YEARS, I'm still learning a few things. My most recent project is the dress above. I typically don't use Vogue patterns for costumes because the designs are generally more complex than similar Butterick or Simplicity patterns, however, my sister in law needed a 50's dress for a party and this was the one she picked. The dress is very cute and wasn't too difficult once I used the appropriate material.

So, here are some tips for using patterns.

1. Make sure the pattern fits your measurements. If you just go by your dress size you'll get a pattern that is very off on the fit. Pattern sizes and dress sizes are not necessarily the same thing.

2. If the pattern is a multisized pattern (as most are now), cut the pattern out to fit your largest measurement. You can always take in but it is very difficult to add.

3. Read the instructions before you cut your fabric! There is a lot of useful information in those instructions and they didn't just print them to waste trees.

4. If you are interested in using the pattern many times (like more than two or three), you may want to transfer the pattern to something more durable. There's this non-woven stuff called "Pattern-ease" (I think) that's usually located in the interfacing section that's got a grid printed on it. If you are planning to make multiple outfits with the same pattern, or if you need to drastically alter the pattern, this stuff is a life saver. The tissue that most patterns are printed on tend to not hold up very well through multiple uses (or through pets and toddlers).

5. When you transfer the pattern, be sure to transfer ALL the markings. Notches, circles, dots, grainlines, etc. are not just printed for decoration.

6. If you read through the instructions and they seem confusing, use the pattern to make a test piece. I tend to do this with every new pattern I use, especially if I'm making it for someone else, or if I know I'll need to make some alterations to the pattern's design. It lets you check the fit of the pattern vs. the shape of your body prior to cutting on your "real" fabric. This was a lesson hard learned for me.

7. When cutting out a pattern, make sure you are in a location where you won't have animals or children disturbing the fabric. Use fabric weights if you have them, especially for slippery materials. If you don't have weights, just use something heavy to hold the material in place so it won't slip around. If the material shifts, it will alter the way it is cut, which will alter the way it fits into the overall scheme of the pattern. (again, learned the hard way)

8. Transfer ALL markings on the pattern to the fabric. It may seem like it takes forever, or that it's not important, but it really does make lining things up much simpler. I tend to use chalk or tailor's tacks. When using tacks, I just stitch right through the pattern with large stitches and then clip to remove and separate the pieces.

9. When you get to sewing, follow the pattern's instructions (at least the first time out). Staystitch when it says to, Easestitch when it calls for it. It will make your life easier.

10. PRESS YOUR STITCHING AND SEAMS!!! Pressing all the seams will actually make the seams crisper. It will help things lie flatter and work easier all around. If you are not pressing as you go then shame on you.

In addition, you should press your pattern pieces before using them and then fold them neatly when you are done with them. I like to press mine after I fold them as well, just to help them fit in the envelope easier. It's also a good idea to press the fabric before you cut it out. Doing so will eliminate any random creases which can alter the shape of the piece when it is cut.

Hopefully this is helpful to someone. I enjoy teaching people the rudiments of sewing and if you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Total Apathy

You know what I hate? I hate when I look forward to getting out of school so I can work on costumes or what-have-you, and then when I am actually out of school, I decided to do anything and everything other than working on the projects I had planned to work on while I was waiting to get out of school.

Seriously, What's wrong with me? Am I so afraid of being a failure at something that I can never get started?

Usually this is exactly what happens. I end up not doing what I wanted to do because I get hooked on something else (an MMO, video game, whatever). This summer though, it is not apathy that is currently keeping me from my tasks. First, I end up double paying my house note, typically a good thing unless it's not planned for and results in you being broke as a joke for two weeks. Second, I'm coming down with something, probably what the lil dude has. Third, I can't take the lil dude to daycare until I get more money (see point 1) which means I don't have time to do much. Fourth, I have a project for a family member to do, which normally wouldn't be a problem, except for issues one and three.

So for now, I'm still stuck in the dreaming and planning stages with a lot of things. I need to get my act together, get the house in ship shape and get to sewing.

so i can't get my mind out of a costuming frameset right now. I woke up last night at about 1am and couldn't get back to sleep because I was thinking about costuming. The bad thing is I've let the house slide over the last month while working on Mara and I really need to get it back in shape before I can do much of anything costuming-wise. not to mention that I need to pay for my AC repair, which will cut into the funds significantly.

Anyway, today, despite fighting a massive headache and lack of sleep, I'm starting a plan to get the house in order and my diet/exercise plan back on track. What that plan is, I'm not entirely sure, but I gotta start somewhere and with something.

First outing

We went to NOLA comic con today and I wore my Mara Jade (Emperor's hand) costume for the first time. Of course, as much as I tried to remind myself to remember all the pieces that go with it, I forgot the stupid scarf... But overall, I think the costume itself performed pretty well.

Things I will need to change before the next wearing:

Adapt the catsuit so I can actually go to the bathroom without disrobing completely,

cut down the epaulets a bit and/or add a velcro strip for better support,

Remember to take off my damn glasses for pictures... or get contacts.

Get some sort of weaponry prop

Cover boots

Paint the zipper pull to blend in better

Trim down the scarf a bit (it is TOO bunchy at the neck and shoulders)

remember the damn scarf...

Things to change on version 2:

Use a more matte fabric for the underdress

Find a fabric that is a bit more red for the underdress

Adjust the arms on the underdress (the entire armscye needs to be redesigned as I can barely move my arms)

Adjust the arm attachments for the cape (the cape needs to float from the shoulders rather than wrap around the side. Perhaps a shoulder harness with the cape and epaulets attached?)

Get contacts.

Overall, I think this costume design will work out pretty well. There are just a few items that need tweaking.

One cool thing that happened at the convention: One of the Slave Leia's came up to me and recognized who I was. She was super excited about having another girl Star Wars costumer in the area who is interested in joining the Rebel Legion and the 501st. AND she complimented my workmanship, which is always nice.

Of course, it is ALWAYS nice to nerd it up with my buddy, Hannah. We've decide that we're going to have to take a girl-nerd trip to a convention sometime... D*C maybe?

Mara Jade

Finally. Version 1 of Mara Jade's By the Emperor's Hand costume is completed... well mostly. I'm waiting for some glue to dry on the epaulet things and then I have to make sure they will snap to the cape thing. Everything else looks pretty good though. I put it all on together for the first time tonight (minus the epaulets and the wig) and I'm rather pleased with this first attempt. Of course there are things that I now realize I would do differently, or otherwise adjust. If I feel like doing that later or before the next wearing, I will. I have other projects to get started on though. And it doesn't help that my house is now a complete wreck because I've let that slip while working on this costume. I really need some better time management and organizational skills...

Setting up

Just setting things up for now. I'll be blogging about my costume progress and the pitfalls I experience along the way.