Hand stitching

Let me first say that I hate hand sewing. And I don't just dislike it... I loathe it with a passion I cannot express. With the minor exception of embroidery, which I occasionally get the urge to do from time to time. I do understand that it is an important part of sewing, but if I think I can get something done on a machine, I will. At least until recently.

I've had a couple of teachers hand stitching teachers in the past (namely my mom) who have tried to get me to see the light, but now I'm trying to teach myself. I would really like to raise the quality of my costuming work, and that is going to mean the employ of more hand sewing. It could be either through basting pieces together, using thread tracing to make patterns, or just finishing the finer details that I would normally do in a machine. Some of the costumes I have planned right now actually cannot have any topstitching visible, so, things will have to be finished by stitching in the ditch or attaching to seam allowances... by hand. God help us all. Hopefully I'll have a couple of wonderful people to help keep me sane when this starts driving me nuts. And I hate to admit it, but... I've been practicing on my sis-in-law's dress and... well, I find this somewhat therapeutic. Except that it kills my back and fingers.

So, important hand stitches to know:
Running stitch, backstitch, blanket stitch, overcast stitch, blind hem stitch. I only know the first two really well and am still learning the hem stitch. Wish me luck!

On pattern sewing

First off, I'd like to say that I'm not one of those uppity cosplayers who take pride in not being able to use a pattern and having to draft everything myself. You people are crazy for wanting to reinvent the wheel every time you make something. I am perfectly aware that there are no commercial patterns available for most costumes, but that doesn't mean you have to start a costume from scratch. You can take most costumes and break them down into pieces that you CAN then find in a standard pattern catalog.

Once you learn how to read a pattern (and believe me I've taught many other costumers how to do this, or have tried to. Some in particular didn't want to learn), you open up a whole other area of sewing. You don't have to just make costumes. You can make actual clothes that you might want to wear for non-convention purposes! Imagine the possibilities!

Ok, enough attitude. I've been doing some significant pattern sewing recently. Despite knowing how to use a pattern for YEARS, I'm still learning a few things. My most recent project is the dress above. I typically don't use Vogue patterns for costumes because the designs are generally more complex than similar Butterick or Simplicity patterns, however, my sister in law needed a 50's dress for a party and this was the one she picked. The dress is very cute and wasn't too difficult once I used the appropriate material.

So, here are some tips for using patterns.

1. Make sure the pattern fits your measurements. If you just go by your dress size you'll get a pattern that is very off on the fit. Pattern sizes and dress sizes are not necessarily the same thing.

2. If the pattern is a multisized pattern (as most are now), cut the pattern out to fit your largest measurement. You can always take in but it is very difficult to add.

3. Read the instructions before you cut your fabric! There is a lot of useful information in those instructions and they didn't just print them to waste trees.

4. If you are interested in using the pattern many times (like more than two or three), you may want to transfer the pattern to something more durable. There's this non-woven stuff called "Pattern-ease" (I think) that's usually located in the interfacing section that's got a grid printed on it. If you are planning to make multiple outfits with the same pattern, or if you need to drastically alter the pattern, this stuff is a life saver. The tissue that most patterns are printed on tend to not hold up very well through multiple uses (or through pets and toddlers).

5. When you transfer the pattern, be sure to transfer ALL the markings. Notches, circles, dots, grainlines, etc. are not just printed for decoration.

6. If you read through the instructions and they seem confusing, use the pattern to make a test piece. I tend to do this with every new pattern I use, especially if I'm making it for someone else, or if I know I'll need to make some alterations to the pattern's design. It lets you check the fit of the pattern vs. the shape of your body prior to cutting on your "real" fabric. This was a lesson hard learned for me.

7. When cutting out a pattern, make sure you are in a location where you won't have animals or children disturbing the fabric. Use fabric weights if you have them, especially for slippery materials. If you don't have weights, just use something heavy to hold the material in place so it won't slip around. If the material shifts, it will alter the way it is cut, which will alter the way it fits into the overall scheme of the pattern. (again, learned the hard way)

8. Transfer ALL markings on the pattern to the fabric. It may seem like it takes forever, or that it's not important, but it really does make lining things up much simpler. I tend to use chalk or tailor's tacks. When using tacks, I just stitch right through the pattern with large stitches and then clip to remove and separate the pieces.

9. When you get to sewing, follow the pattern's instructions (at least the first time out). Staystitch when it says to, Easestitch when it calls for it. It will make your life easier.

10. PRESS YOUR STITCHING AND SEAMS!!! Pressing all the seams will actually make the seams crisper. It will help things lie flatter and work easier all around. If you are not pressing as you go then shame on you.

In addition, you should press your pattern pieces before using them and then fold them neatly when you are done with them. I like to press mine after I fold them as well, just to help them fit in the envelope easier. It's also a good idea to press the fabric before you cut it out. Doing so will eliminate any random creases which can alter the shape of the piece when it is cut.

Hopefully this is helpful to someone. I enjoy teaching people the rudiments of sewing and if you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

so i can't get my mind out of a costuming frameset right now. I woke up last night at about 1am and couldn't get back to sleep because I was thinking about costuming. The bad thing is I've let the house slide over the last month while working on Mara and I really need to get it back in shape before I can do much of anything costuming-wise. not to mention that I need to pay for my AC repair, which will cut into the funds significantly.

Anyway, today, despite fighting a massive headache and lack of sleep, I'm starting a plan to get the house in order and my diet/exercise plan back on track. What that plan is, I'm not entirely sure, but I gotta start somewhere and with something.