First off, I'd like to say that I'm not one of those uppity cosplayers who take pride in not being able to use a pattern and having to draft everything myself. You people are crazy for wanting to reinvent the wheel every time you make something. I am perfectly aware that there are no commercial patterns available for most costumes, but that doesn't mean you have to start a costume from scratch. You can take most costumes and break them down into pieces that you CAN then find in a standard pattern catalog.
Once you learn how to read a pattern (and believe me I've taught many other costumers how to do this, or have tried to. Some in particular didn't want to learn), you open up a whole other area of sewing. You don't have to just make costumes. You can make actual clothes that you might want to wear for non-convention purposes! Imagine the possibilities!
Ok, enough attitude. I've been doing some significant pattern sewing recently. Despite knowing how to use a pattern for YEARS, I'm still learning a few things. My most recent project is the dress above. I typically don't use Vogue patterns for costumes because the designs are generally more complex than similar Butterick or Simplicity patterns, however, my sister in law needed a 50's dress for a party and this was the one she picked. The dress is very cute and wasn't too difficult once I used the appropriate material.
So, here are some tips for using patterns.
1. Make sure the pattern fits your measurements. If you just go by your dress size you'll get a pattern that is very off on the fit. Pattern sizes and dress sizes are not necessarily the same thing.
2. If the pattern is a multisized pattern (as most are now), cut the pattern out to fit your largest measurement. You can always take in but it is very difficult to add.
3. Read the instructions before you cut your fabric! There is a lot of useful information in those instructions and they didn't just print them to waste trees.
4. If you are interested in using the pattern many times (like more than two or three), you may want to transfer the pattern to something more durable. There's this non-woven stuff called "Pattern-ease" (I think) that's usually located in the interfacing section that's got a grid printed on it. If you are planning to make multiple outfits with the same pattern, or if you need to drastically alter the pattern, this stuff is a life saver. The tissue that most patterns are printed on tend to not hold up very well through multiple uses (or through pets and toddlers).
5. When you transfer the pattern, be sure to transfer ALL the markings. Notches, circles, dots, grainlines, etc. are not just printed for decoration.
6. If you read through the instructions and they seem confusing, use the pattern to make a test piece. I tend to do this with every new pattern I use, especially if I'm making it for someone else, or if I know I'll need to make some alterations to the pattern's design. It lets you check the fit of the pattern vs. the shape of your body prior to cutting on your "real" fabric. This was a lesson hard learned for me.
7. When cutting out a pattern, make sure you are in a location where you won't have animals or children disturbing the fabric. Use fabric weights if you have them, especially for slippery materials. If you don't have weights, just use something heavy to hold the material in place so it won't slip around. If the material shifts, it will alter the way it is cut, which will alter the way it fits into the overall scheme of the pattern. (again, learned the hard way)
8. Transfer ALL markings on the pattern to the fabric. It may seem like it takes forever, or that it's not important, but it really does make lining things up much simpler. I tend to use chalk or tailor's tacks. When using tacks, I just stitch right through the pattern with large stitches and then clip to remove and separate the pieces.
9. When you get to sewing, follow the pattern's instructions (at least the first time out). Staystitch when it says to, Easestitch when it calls for it. It will make your life easier.
10. PRESS YOUR STITCHING AND SEAMS!!! Pressing all the seams will actually make the seams crisper. It will help things lie flatter and work easier all around. If you are not pressing as you go then shame on you.
In addition, you should press your pattern pieces before using them and then fold them neatly when you are done with them. I like to press mine after I fold them as well, just to help them fit in the envelope easier. It's also a good idea to press the fabric before you cut it out. Doing so will eliminate any random creases which can alter the shape of the piece when it is cut.
Hopefully this is helpful to someone. I enjoy teaching people the rudiments of sewing and if you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
